Tour Bike Tips

A Bike Mechanic's Recommendations

The Love, Sweat + Gears Staff includes a bike mechanic who will be with us for the entire tour. Here are a few thoughts and recommendations gleaned from decades of experience...

It is best to bring a bike that has been manufactured in the last 10 years. Replacement parts will still be available, and older bikes may have fatigued parts, especially spokes. Have the frame checked to make sure you can fit tires that are 35mm wide. At the very minimum, tires should be 32mm, since the tour will at times be on gravel roads, trails, and paths. Sure, you can ride on skinnier tires, but you’ll work harder, have a rougher ride, and experience more flats.

If you bring your old "classic", it is a good idea to get new wheels (not inexpensive machine-built wheels, but hand built, good quality wheels with quality spokes and quality hubs are preferred). Remember, we are riding 7,000 km! The mechanic recommends using quality, touring wheels that have conventional spokes (these are commonly referred to as J bend spokes). These wheels will usually have 36 spokes, or perhaps 32 spokes. These will be easy to repair in the middle of nowhere. Exotic wheels may be impossible to repair, and it might take two or more days to ship in replacement wheels.

Have your bike, new or used, completely overhauled at your local bike shop no later than April 30, and then we recommend you ride it at least 500 km before Love, Sweat + Gears. This will give you time to make any adjustments.

During the Overhaul

• Make sure both hubs are serviced.

• Have all brake and shift wires replaced.

• Have hydraulic brake systems bled if you have hydraulic brakes. Bring along some brake fluid for your brake system.

• Have your brake pads replaced. Bring a set of replacement pads.

• Put two brand new tires on the bike and, purchase one or two more as spares for the ride. We suggest folding tires for storage reasons. We will probably need to replace the rear tire at some point during the ride. New tires are the best protection against flats. You may want to consider tires with "flat protection," and we strongly suggest thorn resistant tubes, especially for the first two weeks of riding to Calgary. Tire liners can seem attractive for preventing punctures, but they can eventually cause a flat from the ends of the liner rubbing on the inner tube. They also make tube replacement a bit more complicated if you do have a flat.

• For durability and the smoothest ride on rough surfaces, it is a good idea to use the widest tire that your frame will accommodate. This allows riding at lower tire pressure than skinnier tires while protecting from pinch flats.

• Put a new chain and freewheel/cassette on the bike. This will make your bike pedal much more smoothly and will improve shifting. If your crankset has high mileage, you may want to replace these sprockets as well.

Bike Parts to Bring

Here are some basic bike parts you should bring. There will be bike shops along the route, but these basics may come in handy in the middle of nowhere:

Carry With You On Your Bike

• 1 or 2 spare inner tubes (tubeless tire riders carry 1 tube for emergency flats)

• Tire levers (tubeless riders, just in case)

• Tube patch kit (in case you have more than 2 flats)

• Tire pump or C02 cartridges (carry 2 or 3)

• A "boot" to patch cut tires (Park Tools has a nice version)

• A quick link for your chain (these are specific to 8, 9, 10, or 11 speed chains)

• Spare cleat bolts for clip-less pedals (can steal from cleat replacement kit)

• Spare derailleur hanger (check with your bike shop on this, bring one)

Parts + Supplies You May Need

• Spare set of cleats, which will include cleat bolts

• 5 spare inner tubes (in addition to those you carry on the bike)

• Tubeless tire sealant if your tires are tubeless (there are many brands, bring yours)

• Replacement chain (or 2) (manufacturers say replace every 1,500 to 2,500 km)

• Spare tire or 2 (folding tires are easier to pack)

• Your favourite chain lube

• Degreasing solvent or cleaner is provided

• Additional CO2 cartridges if you use this type of inflator

Parts We Hope You Won't Need (that can save your trip)!

• 2 spokes for your front wheel

• 3 spokes for your rear wheel (drive and non-drive sides may use different spokes)

• Spare “cartridge” bearings if your wheels use this type. Your shop can obtain these

• Replacement brake pads

• Hydraulic fluid if you have hydraulic brakes (different brands use different fluids)

Please label all your spare parts (tires, tubes, cleats, spokes etc.) with your name to prevent confusion. Any parts that you want us to carry should be in a fabric bag with a zipper closure (metal bike parts and plastic bags don’t get along; a cosmetic bag works well). You should carry your spare parts in your space on the gear truck (small stuff, cleats, tubes, tires, chains) so they will be easily accessible.

For each riding day, the mechanic will carry a variety of tubes and small parts for repairs. He will have "loaner" tires in case your tire is damaged, and we can put your spare tire on when we reach camp and open the gear truck.

About Flat Tires

You must learn how to change both the front and rear tires of your bicycle. All riders must have the knowledge, proper tools, and willingness to change their own flat tire.

• You should not be waiting around hoping someone will help you or that the mechanic will happen to drive by.

• Tubeless tires are great until you can’t patch the leak. We’ve seen riders get the same leak patched by bike shops 3 or 4 times in a single day. If you are out on the road and have a leak that is not sealing, then put in a tube and fix it that evening at camp.

• Carry a tire boot. It’s made of Tyvek and will keep your tube from squeezing out of a hole or tear in your tire. Some riders carry a $1 US/$5 CAD bill, which also works great!

Measure Your Bike for Travel

If you bring your bike by vehicle, plane or direct ship it will not arrive in the same condition as your last ride at home. To make sure the bike can be put back close to the way it was, please make the following measurements prior to disassembly and boxing or placing on the bike rack for the drive to the start.

• Measure your saddle height from the center of the crank set to the top of the saddle (lay a ruler over the top of your saddle). It also helps to wrap tape around your seat post flush with where it meets your seat tube so if you remove your saddle you can just slide it in to the tape.

• Measure the distance from the front tip of the saddle to the rear base of the stem. You may also want to know the distance from the saddle tip to the handlebar.

• Measure from the front of your saddle down to the top tube.

• Flat Bars - Measure your handlebar height from the top next to the stem to the ground. Then measure the height from the bottom of the bar plugs to the ground.

• Drop Bars - Measure your handlebar height from the top next to the stem to the ground. Then measure the height from the bottom of the bar plugs to the ground.

Bring all of the fit measurements so the saddle and handlebar can be positioned as close as possible to your normal riding position.

When boxing your bike, do not remove brake or shift levers from the handlebars. Remove the faceplate from the stem and remove the entire handlebar leaving all cables attached when you box the bike. Make sure to replace the faceplate and snug down the bolts so they are still there when you open the box. Also leave your saddle attached to the seat post and remove the entire saddle and seat post. Wrap the seatpost with newspaper or plastic to protect your bike from the post.